Method of peeling and production of a preparation for its implementation

ABSTRACT

A method of superficial epidermal peeling in a human comprising massaging unto the horny layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum), a composition comprising vegetable-derived elements characterized by sufficient length and rigidity to enter into the horny layer, improving the constitution of the skin tint, smoothing the skin surface, removing wrinkles, blemishes, localized hyperkeratoses and reducing skin pore size by regulating seborrhea.

This application is a 371 case of PCT/FR99/03161 which claims thepriority date of Dec. 16, 1999.

This invention relates to a method of peeling as well as to theproduction of a preparation for its implementation.

In dermo-cosmetological practice, “peeling” conventionally refers to atreatment that consists in causing, by means of chemical products, adestruction of cellular layers that form the epidermis, over a variabledepth based on the intensity of the peeling, in order to induce anexfoliation of these layers, then their regeneration, i.e., theirreplacement by new cellular layers.

The peeling thus makes it possible to eliminate a certain number ofimperfections that are present on the surface of the skin such as openpores, blemishes, seborrheic warts, wrinkles, localized hyperkeratoses,superficial scars, etc.

To date, various chemical products have been proposed, which all have incommon acting by a powerful keratolytic effect. Among those that aremost frequently used, it is possible to cite phenol, resorcinol,trichloroacetic acid, glycolic acid and the other alpha-hydroxylatedacids.

The progression of these products within cellular layers of theepidermis and, consequently, their depth of action are sometimesdifficult to monitor. Reaching the basal layer of the epidermis,however, and even the underlying dermis, can have extremely negativeconsequences. Thus, brown spots can appear secondarily in the case oflesion of the basal epidermal layer, while a definitive depigmentationof the skin can develop in the event of the dermis and pilosebaceouspassages being reached. Finally, intoxication cases have been reported,in particular with the use of phenol, due to a systemic penetration ofthe latter.

As a result, peeling as it is practiced to date, if it constitutes avery effective technique for improving the appearance of the skin,exhibits non-negligible risks that justify in particular the fact thatit can be used only by professionals in the field of dermo-cosmetology.

Another technique for improving the appearance of the skin, which isalso widely used in dermo-cosmetology, consists in eliminating a more orless large portion of the surface layers of the epidermis by anabrasion, i.e., a purely mechanical action.

First of all, there are so-called scrubbing or exfoliating products,also called “scrubs” in English terminology, that come in the form ofcreams or gels and that contain particles that, when they are used tomassage the skin, are able to cause an exfoliation of dead epidermiscells—i.e. the horny layer—by an abrasive action. These scrubbingproducts, which are described in particular in Japanese PatentApplications Nos. 3-106809 and 6-072827, European Patent Application No.692 236, International Application PCT No. 94/12151, and the article ofNAKAHIRA et al. published in COSMETICS & TOILETRIES (1986, 101, 41-47)are primarily intended for wide-spread public use. They are thusdesigned to exhibit, under normal conditions of use, only a verysuperficial exfoliating action, limited to several cellular layers ofthe horny layer, which makes possible an in-depth cleaning of the skin,but which is unsuitable for eliminating or even reducing theimperfections that the latter may comprise.

Furthermore, the professionals of dermo-cosmetology use a so-called“dermabrasion” technique whose purpose is to eliminate the entire hornylayer by fine sanding of the cells of this layer with grinders.

Finally, for several years, the dermatologists have resorted to the useof laser rays that make it possible to cause destruction by burning theepidermis.

If these two latter methods, dermabrasion and laser, are sensible means,in the hands of professionals, for ensuring better monitoring of thedepth of the skin destruction than the chemical peeling, it turns out,however, that their use is not totally without undesirable secondaryeffects such as dyschromias, retractions, weight loss and embrittlementof the skin covering. The dermabrasion, moreover, exhibits the drawbackof being extremely uncomfortable for the person in whom it is carriedout and cannot be used over the entire face, in particular under theeyes where the skin is too fine. With regard to laser rays, they createthe risk of a resurgence of the herpes virus in subjects that haveundergone a primary infection that requires taking an antiviraltreatment prior to its use.

What is more, the practice of the dermabrasion or the laser should becompared to a true surgical intervention that requires a wide-area localanesthesia, and even a general anesthesia, and that indicates long andsometimes uncertain operating procedures.

The problem is posed, consequently, of using new techniques making itpossible to eliminate, or, at the very least, to reduce theimperfections that can be exhibited by the surface of the skin so as toimprove the appearance thereof, and that are, in a general manner, freeof all of the drawbacks indicated above.

More particularly, the problem is posed of using new techniques that,while making it possible to obtain a satisfactory skin resurfacing, havea limited action in the thickness of the epidermis so as to prevent anylesion of the basal layer of the dermis or of the underlying dermis,and, consequently, the unexpected occurrence of inopportune secondaryeffects, and even consequences that go against the desired object.

Finally, it is desirable that these techniques be characterized bysafety and simplicity of use such that their use does not necessarilyimpose the intervention of a professional in the field ofdermo-cosmetology and is accessible to any person desiring to improvethe appearance of his skin.

The inventors, however, noted that it is possible to induce, by theintroduction, in the thickness of the horny layer of the epidermis, amultitude of elements of very small size, a separation and a cleavage ofthis horny layer in its entirety that end in its elimination and itsreplacement by new cellular layers, and, consequently, in a notableimprovement in the appearance of the surface of the skin, and this,without risk of lesion of the basal layer of the epidermis, nor of theunderlying dermis.

The inventors therefore developed, on the basis of these findings, a newmethod for embellishing the appearance of the skin that, although notusing a chemical product with keratolytic effect, will be referred tobelow as “method of peeling,” to the extent that it makes it possible toobtain, like the chemical peeling, an exfoliation of superficialcellular layers of the epidermis and their regeneration.

This invention therefore has as its object a peeling method that ischaracterized in that it comprises the introduction, in the thickness ofthe horny layer of the epidermis, of elements whose length is betweenabout 5 and 100 microns and that have a tapered shape and an adequaterigidity to be able to penetrate said horny layer.

Within the meaning of this invention, “tapered shape” element means anyelement that has the general shape of a needle or pin, i.e., that has alength much greater than its width and whose ends end in points.Furthermore, within the scope of this invention, it is considered thatan element has an adequate rigidity to be able to penetrate the hornylayer when, this element being deposited on the surface of the skin, itis able, taking into account its tapered shape, to penetrate the hornylayer and advance into the thickness of this layer under the effect of asimple manual massage.

According to an advantageous arrangement of this peeling method, theelements that are introduced into the thickness of the horny layer areelements of vegetable origin. Actually, a large number of elements thatmeet the criteria of size, shape and rigidity mentioned above and that,by their natural origin, offer a perfect safety, which makes their useparticularly suitable for the implementation of the peeling methodaccording to the invention, are found among the vegetables.

These elements of vegetable origin are preferably selected from amongthe fibers, the hairs and the crystals of calcium oxalate.

According to the invention, vegetable fibers of lignin and/or cellulose(pectocellulose, hemicellulose, . . . ), which come in the form of pinsand have a length of about 5 to 50 microns, are preferably used. Suchfibers are exhibited in numerous ligneous tissues and, in particular, inthe wood of Cercis australis, Ledum palustre and Myricaria germanica.

Furthermore, as far as the hairs are concerned, it is preferred to usehairs that have a length of between about 20 and 100 microns, to theextent that they generally exhibit a rigidity that ensures optimumpenetration of the horny layer. By way of examples of hairs that areparticularly well-suited to the implementation of the peeling methodaccording to the invention, it is possible to cite the hairs that arepresent on the surface of Ficus carica leaves and those that are presentin the fruits of Rosa canina, Urtica urens, and Urtica dioica.

As for calcium oxalate crystals, those that come in the form ofraphides, i.e., clusters of fine crystalline needles, have proven to bethe most advantageous. Such crystals are present in a large number ofmonocotyledonous species, but also in a certain number of dicotyledonousspecies such as those that belong to the genera Yucca, Tamus,Diffenbachia or else Asparagus.

According to another advantageous arrangement of the peeling methodaccording to the invention, the introduction of elements in thethickness of the horny layer is obtained by a massage of skin areas tobe treated, with these elements. This massage, which can be carried outmanually or by means of a suitable device, is preferably light anduniform and of a period advantageously between 1 and 10 minutes andpreferably on the order of 2 to 5 minutes. It is thus possible to obtaina very satisfactory penetration of elements in the horny layer by atechnique that is neither painful nor aggressive for the skin and thatoffers, moreover, the advantage of requiring neither a specific materialnor a particular dexterity.

According to the invention, the massage of skin areas to be treated withthe elements can be carried out by using the latter in different forms.Thus, for example, when the elements that are intended to be introducedinto the thickness of the horny layer are hairs that are present on thesurface of a vegetable element such as a leaf, the massage can becarried out by directly rubbing the skin areas to be treated with thiselement or a fragment of the latter.

As a variant, it is also possible to carry out this massage with a moreor less developed preparation that contains the elements that areintended to be introduced into the thickness of the horny layer, suchas:

a powder that is obtained, for example, by a spraying of elements(leaves, stems, fruits, . . . ) or vegetable tissues (wood, forexample), known for exhibiting fibers, hairs or calcium oxalate crystalsthat are suitable for the implementation of the peeling method accordingto the invention and that come in dehydrated form, optionally followedby one or more sieving procedures that are suitable for increasing thecontent of the resulting powder of fibers, hairs or calcium oxalatecrystals as appropriate;

a suspension that can be prepared either by a grinding of these sameelements or vegetable tissues, but in a fresh or rehydrated form,optionally followed by a dilution of the ground material in a liquidphase (water, water/glycerol, oil, . . . ) and one or more sievingprocedures, either by suspending a powder as obtained above in a liquidphase; or else

a more complex formulation of cream, milk or gel type, preparedaccording to the same principles.

Regardless of the manner in which the massage is carried out, thepenetration of elements in the thickness of the horny layer isreflected, in a first step, by the appearance of a slight redness, whichis gradually amplified generally by accompanying a sensation of heat,and which disappears at the end of several hours. Then, about 2 to 3days after the massage is carried out, a very uniform exfoliation, withregard to the thickness and the surface on which it is produced, isobserved at the treated skin areas. This exfoliation shows, in fact, aseparation and a cleavage of the horny layer as a whole relative to theunderlying cellular layers of the epidermis. This separation and thiscleavage result from an intake of interstitial fluids between the hornylayer and these underlying epidermal layers, which is itself induced bythe penetration and the progression of elements in the thickness of thehorny layer. The exfoliation of the horny layer is accompanied by arenewal of this layer, starting from underlying epidermal cells, whichcan be maintained by carrying out a peeling according to the inventionat regular intervals.

An improvement in the constitution of the tint, i.e., its lustre, asmoothing of the surface of the skin by reducing wrinkles, aconsiderable reduction of blemishes and localized hyperkeratoses, and,in skin with a tendency toward seborrhea, a reduction of the size ofskin pores by regulation of seborrhea, are thus obtained.

According to the invention, the massage is advantageously followed by acleaning and/or a rinsing of treated skin areas, then the application,in these areas, of a cosmetic composition that is high in fattysubstances, such as, for example, oils, and in particular vegetable oils(Jojoba oil, sesame oil, hydrogenated palm oil, kernel oil, . . . ),waxes (beeswax, Euphorbia serifera wax, . . . ) or fatty acid esters ortriglyceride esters (glycerol stearate, glyceryl stearate, polyglycerolisostearate, isostearyl neopentonate, cetyl palmitate, triglycerideesters and caprylic acid or capric acid, . . . ) so as to promote therebuilding of the epidermis.

It is also possible to initiate, in the following days, a dailyapplication of a cosmetic composition based on compounds that haveinhibitory properties on the pigmentation of the skin, such ashydroquinone and its monomethyl ether (mequinol) or kojic acid, topreclude a possible reappearance of blemishes, in particular in subjectswho have skin with a pigmentogenic tendency (black skin, cross-breedskin, Asiatic skin, . . . ).

Finally, in the cases of skin hypersensitivity, in addition, cosmeticcompositions that soften, soothe or are suitable for reducing possibleedema will be used.

The peeling method according to the invention offers numerousadvantages. Actually, while making it possible to improve veryeffectively the appearance of the surface of the skin, it does notcreate, contrary to chemical peeling techniques, dermabrasion and laserray burning used to date, any risk of lesion of the basal layer of theepidermis, nor of the underlying dermis, and, consequently, any of thesecondary effects inherent to these techniques. Furthermore, it isneither painful nor even uncomfortable and can be applied over all ofthe skin areas, including the most fragile areas. Finally, by its safetyand its simplicity of use, it can be used by private individuals as wellas by professionals.

This invention also has as its object the use of elements whose lengthis between about 5 and 100 microns and that have a tapered shape and anadequate rigidity to be able to penetrate the horny layer of theepidermis, for the production of a preparation for the implementation ofa peeling method as defined above.

According to an advantageous implementation of this use, the elementsare elements of vegetable origin.

According to a preferred arrangement of this advantageousimplementation, these elements of vegetable origin are selected fromamong:

the fibers, and, more particularly, from among the lignin fibers andcellulose fibers that come in the form of pins and have a length ofabout 5 to 50 microns;

the hairs, and, in particular, from among the hairs that have a lengthof between about 20 and 100 microns; and

the calcium oxalate crystals, and, preferably, from among the oxalatecrystals that come in the form of raphides.

In a particularly preferred manner, the elements are selected from amongthe fibers of the wood of Cercis australis, Ledum palustre and Myricariagermanica, the hairs of Ficus carica leaves, the hairs of fruits of Rosacanina, Urtica urens and Urtica dioica, and the raphides of calciumoxalate that are present in the species that belong to the genera Yucca,Tamus, Diffenbachia and Asparagus.

According to the invention, the preparation advantageously contains anamount of elements that is between 20 and 60%, and, more particularly,between 30 and 40% by weight of the total weight of said preparation,and that is preferably selected based on the ethnic group by whom it isintended to be used, so as to take into account skin specificitiescharacteristic of each of these groups.

Also according to another advantageous arrangement of the use accordingto the invention, the preparation comes in the form of a cosmeticcomposition that contains the elements in suspension in aphysiologically acceptable vehicle and that contains, for example, oneor more fatty substances that are suitable for a cosmetic use such asthose cited above, so as to impart to this preparation a texture that isparticularly suited to use by massage.

Such a cosmetic composition, which can come in the form of a cream, amilk, a gel or a suspension, is able to be prepared by a process thatcomprises:

the grinding of elements or vegetable tissues that are known for havingfibers, hairs or calcium oxalate crystals that are suitable for theimplementation of the peeling method according to the invention,

the passage of the ground material into one or more sieves that havemeshes that are at most equal to 500 microns, advantageously 200microns, and, preferably, 100 microns, so as to increase the content ofthis ground material of fibers, hairs or calcium oxalate crystals asappropriate,

the suspending of the ground material in a physiologically acceptablevehicle and the homogenization of the resulting suspension.

As a variant, the preparation can come in the form of a simple powderthat is obtained by, for example, a spraying of elements or dehydratedvegetable tissues, optionally followed by one or more sievingprocedures.

This invention also has as its object a preparation for theimplementation of a peeling method as defined above, whereby thispreparation comprises elements whose length is between about 5 and 100microns and is characterized in that these elements are tapered, exhibitan adequate rigidity to be able to penetrate the horny layer of theepidermis, and are selected from among the fibers of the wood of Cercisaustralis, Ledum palustre, and Myricaria germanica, the hairs of Ficuscarica leaves, the hairs of fruits of Rosa canina, Urtica urens, andUrtica dioica, and the calcium oxalate raphides that are present in thespecies that belong to the genera Yucca, Tamus, Diffenbachia andAsparagus.

According to the invention, this preparation advantageously contains anamount of elements that is between 20 and 60% and, more particularly,between 30 and 40% by weight of the total weight of said preparation,and this is also preferably selected based on the ethnic group by whomit is intended to be used.

Furthermore, it preferably comes in the form of a cosmetic compositionthat comprises the elements in a physiologically acceptable vehicle.

In addition to the preceding arrangements, the invention also comprisesother arrangements that will emerge from the following description andrefers to examples of implementation of the peeling method according tothe invention and preparations that are suitable for thisimplementation.

It should be understood, however, that these examples are provided onlyby way of illustrations of the object of the invention and do notconstitute a limitation in any way.

EXAMPLE 1 Peeling with a Composition Based on Rosa canina Fruits

Rosa canina fruits are reduced into very fine powder in a cutting mill,then the powder that is obtained is passed successively into two sieves,the first of 500 μm and the second of 200 μm. The sieving product isadded at a 2% level (p/p) to a mixture that comprises, in equal parts byweight, kernel oil of various Prunus, hydrogenated palm oil andEuphorbia seifera wax, then the whole mixture is homogenized.

On a face whose skin was previously cleaned, 1 g of the thus preparedcomposition is deposited on the forehead and on the cheeks, and it ismassaged uniformly for about 5 minutes. The face is then cleaned verycarefully with a cleaning solution or a mild and non-alkaline soap suchas those conventionally used for face care.

EXAMPLE 2 Peeling with a Composition Based on Powder of Cercis australisWood

Cercis australis wood is reduced into very fine powder in a cuttingmill, then the powder that is obtained is passed through a 200 μm sieve.The sieving product is suspended in a mixture of water and glycerol(50/50, v/v) at a rate of 10 g of product per 20 ml of purifiedwater/glycerol mixture, and the whole mixture is homogenized.

On a face whose skin was previously cleaned, 1 g of this suspension isdeposited on the forehead and on the cheeks, and it is massageduniformly for about 5 minutes. Then, excess suspension is eliminated bymeans of a wet cloth.

EXAMPLE 3 Peeling with a Composition Based on Powder of Ficus caricaLeaves

By following an operating procedure that is identical to the one that isdescribed in Example 1, a homogeneous suspension that contains 10 g ofpowder of dry Ficus carica leaves is prepared in 20 ml of a mixture ofpurified water/glycerol (50/50, v/v).

1 g of this suspension is applied to the forehead and the cheeks of aface whose skin was previously cleaned, and it is massaged uniformly forabout 5 minutes. Then, excess suspension is eliminated by means of a wetcloth.

EXAMPLE 4 Peeling with Entire Leaves of Ficus carica

Dry Ficus carica leaves are rehydrated by soaking in a mixture ofpurified water and glycerol (50/50, v/v). Once these leaves are totallyrehydrated, they are applied to the forehead and the cheeks of a facewhose skin was previously cleaned, and it is rubbed gently for about 2minutes.

EXAMPLE 5 Peeling with a Composition Based on Fresh Pulp of the YuccaSpecies

Fresh leaves or fresh stems of the Yucca species are ground by means ofa cutting mill, then an equal weight of purified water is added to theground material that is obtained. The resulting suspension is passedinto a 100 μm sieve, then it is homogenized.

On a face whose skin was previously cleaned, 1 g of this suspension isdeposited on the forehead and on the cheeks, and it is massageduniformly for about 5 minutes. Then, excess suspension is eliminated bymeans of a wet cloth.

In all of the cases described above, a slight redness of the faceappeared immediately following the massage. This redness graduallyincreased, while being accompanied most often by a slight sensation ofheat, then disappeared at the end of several hours. A very uniformexfoliation of the treated skin areas was observed about 2 to 3 daysafter the massage was carried out. The regeneration of the epidermalcells following this exfoliation is reflected by an improvement in theconstitution of the tint, a reduction of the skin pore size and asmoothing of the surface of the skin.

What is claimed is:
 1. A method of superficially peeling epidermaltissue comprising the steps of introducing into the horny layer of theskin of a human being an element comprising hair of vegetable originselected from the hair of the fruit of Rosa canina, said hair having arigidity, size and shape sufficient to cleave and penetrate said hornylayer and having a length of about 5 to about 100 millimicrons.
 2. Themethod of claim 1 further massaging said hair into the horny layer forfrom about 2 to about 10 minutes sufficient to cause cleavage andpenetration.
 3. The method of claim 2, further cleaning and rinsing themassaged areas and then applying a cosmetic composition thereto high infatty substances.
 4. A dermatological method for superficial epidermalpeeling comprising introducing into the horny layer of the skin of ahuman being, an element comprising hair of vegetable origin from thehair of the fruit of Rosa canina, said hair having a rigidity and shapesufficient to penetrate said horny layer and having a length of about 5to about 100 microns.
 5. The element of claim 4 wherein the element ispresent in an amount of from about 10% to about 40% by weight of adermatologic preparation.
 6. The method of claim 4 wherein the elementcomprises hair of fruit of rosa canina of a length of from about 20 toabout 100 millimicrons.